Carolina Loop and Dismal Swamp Canal

Place: Coinjock NC / Dismal Swamp Canal Trip

Date: June 8, 2011

In the last 4 days, we have ridden almost 500 miles. Today (Friday, Jun 9) is a day of rest. Wednesday we drove 140 miles, put the skis in the water, rode 128 miles, and drove 140 miles back. We were up at 0500 and got home around midnight. We did the "Carolina Loop" which took us through the Dismal Swamp Canal and into Virginia. Weather was great.

We got a little lost getting to our starting point (Coinjock, NC), so we didn't get on the water until 0930, 30 min later than we planned. Water had 3-4ft waves and was shallow, under 2 feet deep in the Albemarle Sound, so we had to stay a mile or 2 off shore to get into deeper water (4 or more feet preferred). We got to Elizabeth City (45 mi) a little before 1100; the lock we were trying to reach opened at 1100, and was still 15 mi away down the narrow Pasquotank River, and we needed to stop for fuel. We needed that extra 30 minutes we had planned for but didn't have.

George asked if I was ready to give up the idea and I said, "Not until we get to the lock and the doors are closed. We will not stop for gas." He nodded and took off like the wind. His ski will go 68 mph and mine only 58 Mph. We weaved through the narrow river with lots of turns. George got to the lock after one door was closed and the second door was at a 45 degree angle. The lockmaster stopped the door and talked to George. When I arrived I observed the lockmaster nod and he went back to his little lockmaster house and opened the doors. The rest of our party arrived shortly thereafter (4 skis total), and we were inside the lock of the Dismal Swamp!! WOW! We made it! The See-Doos needed gas, but we did not take the time to fuel. Let's just keep going; the Yamahas (2) can tow the SeaDoos (2) if needed, was the plan.

The Dismal Swamp was narrow (20-40 feet across) and a 22 mile long no wake zone. The lock at the other end opens at 1:30p and 3:30p. The skis idle (no wake) at 3mph, but that would take us 7 hours. 7 mph (speed limit in the canal) creates a healthy wake; that won't work either. We worked out a compromise of wake/no wake speeds to get us to the lock by 3:30p. We didn't want to get stuck in a big ditch overnight. There were only 2 other boats in the lock with us and they were in front, so we passed them. The second boat to be passed (the "Winsome") yelled at us for throwing a wake and we suspected that he would report us to the lockmaster at the 3:30p lock. We went as "no wake" as we possibly could the rest of the way, but well ahead of the Winsome.

About 8-10 miles in, the SeaDoos were getting very low on gas. I began to tow one. A short time later, the other Yamaha began to tow the other SeaDoo. Pulling another ski requires the towing ski to increase engine rpms, and creates a larger wake. We did the best we could to minimize our wake. As we got within a few miles of the lock, we untied and let the SeaDoos proceed with the little gas they had left. (Note: Yamahas use less fuel and have larger gas tanks.)

The lockmaster said he expected us at 1:30p and that "some people were concerned about our presence in the canal". Yes, the guy on the Winsome reported us. We told the lockmaster that we could not figure out how to get to the lock by 1:30p without throwing a wake. "You can't." he said. I told him we went as slow as we could. He smiled and said that it is very rare for skis to go through the Dismal Swamp Canal. As the water lowered us to the Elizabeth River, he told us some history of the swamp. He was very nice. [Note: It is called Dismal due to intense biting deer flies in the later part of the summer. Early explorer of the area reported it was a "dismal place not fit for man or beast."]  We carried out some fly bites on our legs as souvenirs.

We learned the location of the nearest marina (about 4 miles ahead) and, upon exiting the lock, we took off at 30 mph (best fuel consumption speed). One SeaDoo ran out of gas about 1/2 mile from the Marina and had to be towed. The remaining skis made it. We can eat lunch here too. It’s 4pm. But the gas pumps are not working...... so we go eat a VERY nice dinner. We were the only patrons in a very upscale restaurant dressed like a senior biker gang. 5pm and the pumps are still not working. Finally the pumps start working about 5:30 and we all get fuel. OK, folks, we need to ride like the wind, we have 50 more miles to go and some of it is in "big water" which may have big waves. We need to make up time in the calm water.

We go all out ... 50+mph. Then, about 10 miles down.... another lock! It is 6pm. Lock will be ready in 30 min. The lock drops us a mere 6 inches. No more locks, let's go. It’s now 6:40p. We must slow down and drive under a couple bridges with barely enough clearance for the ski. We must lie down on the ski as we slowly drive under the low bridges…then we are back up to speed.

As we approach the big water we see it is a little choppy, but mostly under 2 ft. waves. Whew! We go about 30-40mph over the tops of the waves. We can barely see land, but the channel is very well marked. The channel makes a hard left turn, but the one ski ahead of us continues straight. We stop hoping she will figure out that we need to turn. She goes several miles; we can't see the ski, but can still see the white spray of the ski. We can't catch up to her, but don't want to lose sight of her. She finally makes the left turn and comes back toward us. Whew. The sun is getting low, no time for a lost skier.

We take a little break and regroup. Off we go. The water is getting calmer as we approach the shelter of land. What a great day, I am wide open... 58 mph. What a rush. I don't want this day to end, but I am physically exhausted.

We arrive at the boat ramp at 8pm. The sun is very low in the sky, but it is still very hot out. We load up our skis and make plans for the next day. I drive the 140 miles home. Betty, sitting in the backseat of my truck, tries to keep talking to keep me awake while George dozes occasionally in the front seat beside me. Betty dozes off briefly.  We arrive home a little before midnight. I take a quick shower in my camper and am in bed by 12:30am. It didn't take any time to fall asleep.

What a great day.